Guan Hoe Soon Peranakan Restaurant

Published - 08 December 2019, Sunday
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Tristan

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RATED 7.5 / 8
I have been coming to this cosy, affectionate unstrapped Peranakan joint since I was a teenager and it evokes the feeling of cooking that bares its soul and skips the pretense.

Everything here is outstanding in flavour but I highly recommend the beef rendang that isn't clumped by starch and is tenderised to the right effect. The asam pedas fish is not lost floundering in sauce and similarly the ikan a nanas pedas is crisp to the bite and accentuated by spice that's skillful and sound. The soup broths for hee peow (fish maw) and bakwan kepiting (pork and crab meatballs) are robust through slow boiling and not being over-fussed by complex produce.

Most places these days don't get traditional delights like the ayam buak keluak and sambal sotong right due to an inability to overhaul the proportion of moisture. It's the mark of graceful old hands here, waving the baton into a flight of accomplished authenticity. If I had the liberty to, I'd bring in baguettes or mantou steamed buns to mop up the sauces that speak volumes.

Hoping places like these can fight the fronts of modernization and undiscerning hype! @ Guan Hoe Soon Peranakan Restaurant

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