Recent years have seen an unprecedented influx of Indian restaurants that go beyond the family-style dining offered by the older establishments. The newer restaurants are fresh, they’re classy, and they push the perception of Indian food beyond the butter chickens of the world.
Opened two years ago, Aharā derives its name from the Sanskrit word used in ancient Ayurvedic philosophy to define food as the root of all wellbeing. One of India’s celebrated chefs, Chef Vikramjit Roy, who learnt his craft from Japanese Iron Chef Masaharu Morimoto, Heston Blumenthal and other notable names in the industry, is the man behind the brand as well as the one on the pass at Ahāra.
In December last year, Chef Roy shut his kitchen and sent the crew on a discovery trip across India. They embraced new experiences, flavours, and techniques while delving deeper into regional cuisines of the country, because let’s be honest, there’s nothing called Indian food. India is an enthralling exploration into vast and diverse regions and communities, each spearheading a food movement of its own while preserving traditional recipes. As an outcome of this trip, the team decided to introduce a first-ever a la carte menu at Ahāra, which previously only offered nine-course and 16-course menus.
Called Journey 4, the new menu at Ahāra is a journey across India, or as the chef puts it, a veritable ‘Bharat darshan’. With ample options for vegetarians and those who eat meat, Ahāra is an easy choice for business dinners. The menu is undeniably pricey, another reason we love a la carte menus at fine dining establishments. Industrial interiors interspersed with art installations that pop out from the grey walls make for a classy dining room. The service is attentive, sometimes a little too much so, especially when you prefer privacy for business discussions.
The kitchen at Ahāra doesn’t skimp on the spices, unlike many restaurants that temper down Indian food to suit all palates. The Mutton Kakori Kebab is aptly spiced and melts in the mouth as it is traditionally meant to. Legend says that the Kakori was invented in the kitchens of the Nawaab of Awadh (Lucknow) who loved kebabs but could not chew them because of old age. Thus, the softened meat of the Kakori Kebab was designed to simply melt in the mouth, unlike a chewy seekh kebab or chicken tikka.
The one at Ahāra packs a punch, and is served with pickled onions and an unnecessary base of cracked wheat upma. While I loved the kebab, spicy as it was, I would have welcomed a crispier base, or one to hold the flavours together like the traditional accompaniment of ulte tawa ka paratha.
Where the appetisers underwhelm, the mains make up in strides. I skipped Chicken Tikka Meatball, fearing it would be akin to a generic Butter Chicken, and opted for the Chilean Sea Bass instead. Yes, ironic I know, the choice of fish. But I wouldn’t hold that against the kitchen, as the fish used is often a factor of availability and accessibility. The preparation however, is as close to its roots as could be.
Wrapped and cooked in a turmeric leaf, the flaky fish was lathered with a charred green chilli sauce which added more flavour than spice, and served with a parsnip puree elevated with kaffir lime. The fish was a fine example of both attention to techniques, perhaps learnt in Japanese kitchens, and representation of regional cuisines in India that go beyond popular curries.
Though the Dal Makhni was textbook perfect, as good as the Dal Bukhara in Delhi’s Bukhara restaurant which claims to have invented the dish, the show stealer was an innocuous Bharwan Gucchi. The morel mushroom sourced from Kashmir is one of India’s lesser known culinary gems. It’s worth its weight in gold, both in terms of price and flavour. Ahāra does a version served like the famous Methi Matar Malai dish, a creamy fenugreek semi-gravy which allows the morel mushroom to shine. And shine it does.
No mention of the mains would be complete in an Indian restaurant if one did not sample the biryani. In India, there is an everlasting debate on where the best biryani is made. Is it the subtly flavoured dum biryani of Lucknow or the fiery Hyderabad biryani? Many food writers give the crown to the honest and simple flavours of Kolkata biryani, where Chef Roy hails from.
The White Stripe Lamb Shank Biryani (pictured above) at Ahāra is neither simple (topped with an edible gold leaf), nor does it have the quintessential potato that must be found in a true Kolkata biryani. No complaints though, as the dum-cooked dish stands tall by itself. The basmati rice is fragrant and the meat falls off the bone with just a nudge. A fine end to the main course.
Centrally located in the Keong Saik area, Ahāra’s location is enviable, making it an easy choice for business meals or a special occasion dinner. Seeing fine dining restaurants pay attention to what the customer has been seeking, an a la carte menu for a meal that doesn’t last three hours, is a refreshing change. This, I believe, will be the new wave of dining across the world. Casual outposts and a la carte menus, democratising good food and giving power back to the diner. Meanwhile, the gucchi at Ahāra is reason enough to drop in for a visit.
About The Writer
Harnoor Channi-Tiwary is a well-published Travel Editor & Food Writer based in Singapore. With more than 13 years of editorial experience, she writes for some of the world’s top publications such as JW Marriott Magazine, Conde Nast Traveler, Wine & Dine, The CEO Magazine, Korean Air, and Turkish Airlines and sits on the tasting panel of various food awards. Harnoor is also the Global Editor of Asia's premier luxury villa company, Elite Havens, and is currently working on a book based on her food trails across Southeast Asia, having already published an Expat Guide for India.
Recently graduated from the highly specialised 'Advanced Studies in Gastronomy' course at Le Cordon Bleu Paris, Harnoor brings with her a deeper understanding of cuisines, authentic flavours, and their evolution. The world of food and travel are the very axis of her life and her in-depth knowledge. writing expertise, and quick wit and humour make her one of the region's top food and travel writers.
If you would like Harnoor or any of the Expat Choice reporting team to visit your establishment as a guest to report on your unique experience and have this report published on our network, you can contact Expat Choice HQ by email with details about your offering at [email protected]
a. 20 Teck Lim Rd, Singapore 088391
w. www.ahara.sg
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