Channelling unmistakable New York Art Deco glamour, Parkview Square has long stood apart in the glass-and-steel skyline of Bugis. Its crown jewel, Atlas, needs little introduction. Stepping into its soaring halls feels like entering another era altogether. If The Great Gatsby promised decadence, Atlas delivers it in full force. From intricate metalwork to gilded ceilings and the iconic gin tower rising at one end, every detail is steeped in theatrical grandeur, echoing the drama of Greek mythology that inspires its narrative.
More Than a Bar: A Cultural Institution
A mainstay on any list for impressing overseas visitors, Atlas is far more than a celebrated cocktail bar. It is an institution with a story that runs deeper than its dazzling façade. Quietly championing women empowerment, the management has consistently sought out exceptional global talent. This vision convinced Head Bartender Esmeralda Castrogiovanni to move to Singapore. Originally from Malta, the highly awarded rising star brings a worldly perspective shaped by her experience at acclaimed bars such as SIPS, elevating Atlas’ already formidable reputation.
‘Daughters of Atlas’: A Cocktail Menu with Character
The newly launched Daughters of Atlas menu is anything but a rehash of classics with clever names. Inspired by the seven daughters of Atlas, each section reflects each of their distinct personalities, ensuring there is something for every palate. Whether you lean towards bold spirits or prefer to abstain, the menu delivers thoughtfully crafted options.
For those exploring sobriety like me, Shackleton from the ‘Alcyone’ section stands out. Inspired by calm seas and smooth journeys, this non-alcoholic highball offers refreshing notes layered with warm spice undertones; a nuanced, satisfying alternative that doesn’t feel like an afterthought.
Dining That Rivals the Drinks
While Atlas first rose to fame for its cocktails and legendary gin collection, its evolving dining programme deserves equal attention. Beyond the well-known afternoon tea, the all-day dining menu defies expectations of typical bar fare.
We began a sunlit afternoon in the dining room with Burrata and Jamón Ibérico. The creamy cheese delivered as expected, but it was the charred cherry tomatoes, intensely sweet and smoky, that stole the spotlight. The jamón, delicately sliced and served with scoops of melon, brought back memories of bustling Spanish markets and their exceptional produce.
Warm appetisers followed, with perfectly seared Scallops taking centre stage. Juicy and plump, they were elevated by a pancetta jus that added a savoury depth to their natural sweetness.
Refined Comfort on the Plate
The mains arrived in generous portions, a reminder that enthusiasm can easily lead to over-ordering here. The Duck Confit was a standout, its tender meat yielding effortlessly without the need for a knife. The Pan-Roasted Silver Cod was impressive with crisp skin and flaky flesh, complemented by a rich mussel reduction, shimeji mushrooms and gnocchetti.
Yet, for me, it was the Jerusalem Artichoke Risotto that emerged as the quiet hero. A deceptively simple dish, executed with precision, it was creamy without excess, balanced by a balsamic walnut vinaigrette and cavolo nero crisps for texture. Comforting yet refined, it’s the kind of dish that appeals across generations.
A Sweet Finale Worth Savouring
Dessert proved that Atlas pays as much attention to its final notes as its opening act. The Pavé au Citron, layered with tart lemon curd and softened by thyme Chantilly, was paired with Earl Grey ice cream for a refreshing, palate-cleansing finish.
Why Atlas Still Reigns
In a city as competitive as Singapore, it’s easy for venues to rely on aesthetics alone. Atlas resists that temptation. Its enduring appeal lies in its ability to evolve, refining its menus, nurturing talent, and delivering a holistic experience where every detail matters. In a city of standouts, Atlas continues to set the standard.
