Choice Xperiences reporter June Wee-Grant “Went to Heaven” at Milano Pizza (Hint: it’s on Craig Road)

Published - 22 March 2022, Tuesday
  • June Hui Li Wee - Grant

At the risk of sounding like a living dinosaur, I will admit that when I first saw the words “Milano Pizza & Wine”, the first thing that came to mind was the pizza chain that used to be all the rage for birthday parties in the eighties.

However, this hot new joint - by the same folks behind Pasta Bar and bar Milano - is anything but 80s-retro. In fact, it is very decidedly contemporary - so much so that one cannot help but notice the intention to make it so; from the traditional-meets-modern decor, to the on-trend, well R&Ded, food selection on the menu - hello, sourdough!, generous selection of wines that will satisfy aficionados of all worlds, budgets and palettes, and its subtle, yet fully attentive service - very much in demand now more than ever by the modern, “in-the-nowness” customer.

What struck me was that everything was thoughtfully created and curated, right down to the oh-so-hip colour of the beverage menu cover - no prizes for guessing - millennial pink. TLDR version: Make that reservation right now to give your taste buds and eyes a treat - you will thank yourself for it. 

Want to go deeper? Let’s dive right in.

Tucked between other nondescript shophouses along Craig Road, it’s easy to miss Milano Pizza & Wine. The only hint of its European roots is the pair of red-and-white herringbone bistro bar chairs sitting coolly at the side of the restaurant’s entrance - as if they were inviting someone to join them to watch the world go by, as one would when people-watching at a cafe in Paris. 

Upon stepping through the cheerful turquoise doorway, one is greeted by the al fresco seating area with casual bistro style seating - a charming sea of red, cream and earth tones, cradled by neat greenery and soft warm lighting and candlelight. The casually-elegant, romantic vibe is joined by pops of fun in the indoor seating area. Be welcomed by a large, old-world wall mirror emblazoned with “Life happens… pizza helps” cheekily hand-painted in pink.

This playfulness extends throughout the space as kisses of bright, modern colour pop up across the room, lending contrast to the old-world European sensibility. From the flirty fringed pink lampshades, to the candy pink classically ornate wall paired with a renaissance pet portrait, right down to the pink used on the beverage menu cover, this place has been thoughtfully designed to be a crowd pleaser for the both the sensible and the young - and a dream come true for hungry Instagram content creators.

If you’re as easily overwhelmed by too many choices as I am, you will be glad to know that the one-page food menu here is easy enough to navigate. Choose from five mouthwatering selections of Starters, three distinct styles of pizzas with toppings to please the Traditionalists - good ol’ Margarita, and the Curious - char siu topping, anyone? , and a petite yet strong selection of pastas and mains.

Milano Pizza

On the other hand, the 16-page beverage menu seemed daunting to me at first - but truth be told, it simply means that one would be hard pressed to find something one does not drink. If reading the menu isn’t you kind of thing, simply step into the very inviting, glass-encased cellar and take your own pick. Milano’s wine program consists of Biodynamic & natural wines, with a focus on regional Italy. Sake lovers and cocktail fans, worry not, the bartender has you covered as well.

My partner and I kicked off the evening with a Cucumber Spritz from the specialty in-house Spritz Bar. Refreshing,  light, with just the right hint of sweetness, it was the pick-me-up that we didn’t even know we needed to kick into the swing of the evening. 

Next up was a glass of Commune of Buttons Pretty Fun 2021 - a natural wine; a blend of Syrah and Chardonnay. Yeast-forward, crisp dry, light fizz. Did I also mention that the dusty rose hue was a sight for sore eyes? It’s perfect for afternoon drinking in the sun, or a way to welcome a relaxing evening.

Our first bite was the Bagna Cauda Steak Tartar. Let’s just say that they have made a beef tartar fan out of me! In spite of my cautiousness, I could not help but give the dish a try because it just looked amazing. Finely chopped beef, sprinkled with finely chopped scallion and bits that resembled capers, it was glistening with hope and beckoning me to give it a taste.

Accompanied by a freshly baked pane fresco, which resembled a puffed up naan with bits of charred dough, the combination was a smorgasbord of delight for the senses. When the Chef came round to drizzle olive oil onto the pane fresco, the floodgates opened - I just had to sink my teeth into this starter.

It certainly did not disappoint. I am quietly drolling as I recount this taste experience. The garlic confit, combined with the salty anchovies, capers and hint of a spice kick to the Tartar, with the moreish taste of the homebaked dough - divine!

With our palettes suitably fired up and raring to go, we got down to the main business - the Pizzas.

Developed by world-renowned Pizzaiolo (i.e. a chef who specializes in making pizzas and who has been trained to make real, Italian-style pizzas) and best-selling author Anthony “Pizza Czar” Falco, the three distinct styles of artisanal 400-degree 24-hour sourdough pizzas are what makes Milano Pizza & Wine a “Thing”.

The Neo-Neapolitan takes basic inspiration and baking style from the authentic Neapolitan pizza, but pushes the flavours, ingredients, and baking style into new and exciting directions. The 12-inch thoughtfully-composed NEO-Neopolitan pizza pies are baked at a consistently higher temperature creating a uniquely developed “crumb”, sourdough flavour, and a beautifully charred crust.

This unique baking style allows the pizza to retain a sturdy base. What that means is no more falling toppings onto your plate - the crust HOLDS. Pick it up with your clean paws, sink your teeth into the pie, and experience the melty-meets-crunchy sensation. With a dozen topping types to choose from, it was honestly quite a tough choice to make.

My dinner partner and I umm-ed and ahh-ed between the Sausage & Hot Chillies, Char Siu, and Korea Town (korean marinated short rib, house-made kimchi, gochujang, fresh mozzarella, chives, white onions), before we decided to go all in on seafood - Crab and Lobster Bisque (topped with yummilicious caviarrrrr!).

Next, we sank our teeth into the Milano’s Meat Lovers Buttercrust Pan Pizza, an homage to a favourite “hut” from our childhood. Each slice gave the combined experience of melty and pillowy soft in the middle, juxtaposed by crunchy crust edges, paired with the savoury saltiness of curated salumi, this elevated Meat Lovers pizza was an epic romance unfolding in my mouth.

Just imagine this: the dough is folded over every two hours - for 24-hours, while incorporating three different types of umami butter - yep, I’m definitely never trying this at home!

Just when we thought that things could not get any better for our palettes, the Sicilian Grandma pizza showed up. One word: WOW. Introduced as Singapore’s very first authentic Sicilian Grandma, this style of pie is rumoured to be currently trending throughout the world with expert pizzaiolos.

This dough is laboriously rested, folded, and rested again over 24 hours, allowing a seemingly thick pie to retain its light, airy, and "honeycombed" texture. Topped with Mortadella, Burrata, & Pistachio, this pie stole the show from the previous two pizzas #sorrynotsorry

To be fair, all three types of pizzas were absolutely delicious. Full of flavour, with a delightfully charred crust that’s as enjoyable as a freshly baked loaf of bread. However, the Mortadella & Burrata was a DIVINE combination.

Melty-in-the middle-Crunchy-around-the edges, combined with the savoury delightfulness of the ham and creamy goodness oozing from the burrata - the only word that came to mind throughout eating the Sicilian Grandma pizza was, “WOW”.

Milano Pizza

The unique flavour of Anthony Falco’s intensely researched and developed pizza dough over decades of pizza-making is derived from a mixture of Australian Stone Ground Organic Wheat Flour, Italian pizza flour, and their sourdough starter.

The dough is then allowed a 24-hour natural fermentation process to further develop its flavour. This high quality mixture and process leaves diners without a bloated feeling sometimes associated with eating pizza. You won’t find an over-exaggerated crust filled only with air here. 

Gluten intolerant folks can rejoice - due to the long, natural fermentation with organic flour, they have found dough will likely not cause any issues or discomfort. Having said that, true celiacs should note that they should never eat gluten-free dough that is cooked in the same oven as gluten, therefore they offer a variety of gluten free options on their mains and pasta selection. Just like their sister outlet, Pasta Bar, all pasta at Milano Pizza & Wine are handmade.

​​​​Milano Pizza

And of course, no meal is complete without dessert - even if one is bursting at the seams from #toomuchpizza. That’s why it’s always handy to have a second stomach, just for desserts. *wink* Especially when they are made daily from scratch! The Lemon Meringue pie was the perfect balance of sweet-meets-tart, while the Nutella pie will satisfy any chocolate-lovers’ craving.

Milano Pizza

To end the night, we toasted to good health, cheer and happy pizza dreams with the housemade Limoncello offered by Darren Micallef, F&B Director of the SJS group.

As we thanked Yumi, the affable, professional and attentive server who took such good care of us throughout the entire evening, I made a mental note to return again soon and introduce this wonderful new gem to my pizza-loving friends.

[Note: I returned 5 nights later, with 2 girlfriends in tow. Order the same items again, and left feeling just as satisfied!]

a. 10 Craig Road Singapore, Singapore 089670

e. [email protected]

s. www.facebook.com/milanopizzasg

w. www.milanopizza.sg/

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Sylvia Fernandes

  • 386 comments
  • ELITE
RATED 8 / 8

I was forewarned when I received an invite to Milano Pizza & Wine, that I should be ready for a night to remember.

Recently opened on Craig Road by one of Singapore’s leading hospitality groups, I was told that the stunner of the night was going to be treats produced from an artisanal 400 degree oven. 
Even as the cabbie dropped me off right in front of Milano Pizza & Wine, I caught on to the little high table with two chairs on the sidewalk. How quaint! Beckoning to every passer-by, to stop for reprieve of a little vino and snack perhaps?

As I walked past this, a lovely few outdoor tables greeted me. Again like a garden area it was for those who prefer non-air conditioned settings, to enjoy a balmy night. That was certainly not me I thought as I headed straight for the restaurant door.

The first thing that struck me was the 80’s music and the touch of pink in bar stools and lamp shades. Divinity itself! Definitely put together by a woman. I could see and feel her touch. 

It was my lucky night for I was shown to the best seat at the chef’s table. Wow! Director and Chef extraordinaire Darren Micallef was busy at the infamous oven, preparing the first dish for the night. 

Looking around at the elegantly styled bar and restaurant, I loved the variety of seats a diner could choose to sit at. From the Chef’s table to seats around another bar or at the table for more conservative diners. Being a cook myself, I love watching chefs put ingredients together especially at the end when trimmings are laid on for exquisite presentation. 

A cucumber Spritzer  made from lemon, lime juices added to some Pinot Grigio made for a very refreshing start! Extremely well trained service staff milled about with great regularity, making very pertinent conversation while topping us up with the next drink. 

Focaccia served piping hot was served to the table. As olive oil was poured onto this amazing 24-hour sourdough delight, it was to be eaten with Bagna Cauda steak tartar. Head Chef Ady was in the midst of preparing this when I arrived. Ever so friendly and obviously loving his work, he explained what he was adding to the mince. 

Garlic confit, anchovies, mustard and paprika. A nice combo I thought, not too excited at the sight of steak tartare. To be honest I have never ordered it. In the back of mind I always wondered about the rawness of taste. One bite with focaccia in hand and it was a complete yummo experience! 

It will be the only place that I would dare order this dish again. So well marinated coupled with the beautiful texture of focaccia. Done deal. I decided then, that quality of food at Milano Pizza & Wine got my tick. It affirmed everything I was told and more. Definitely a place I could recommend to other foodie friends.   

Tonight was about experiencing three distinct pizza styles - NEO-Neopolitan, Sicilian Grandma, and Buttercrust Pan Pizza. We had to make some choices of these. 
NEO-Neopolitan choice from a list of 12 amazing options some of which included char siu, Korea town, dashi & onsen egg, upside-down Vodka sauce & calabrese and potato & caviar. How creative and exotic! 

Another reporter June and I chose the crab and lobster bisque with caviar, mozzarella and dill. A five star combo undoubtedly! This was paired with an Australian bubbly rose called “Pretty Fun” which it was. A blend of 60% chardonnay and 40% syrah this was a great complement to the pizza. 

I wanted to know more about Sicilian Grandma, our next pizza to arrive. Currently trending throughout the world with expert pizzaiolos, we were among the first in Singapore to taste this. 

I was not worried about a gluten overload tonight. Pizza dough made from a mixture of Australian Stone Ground Organic Wheat Flour, Italian pizza flour and Milano Pizza & Wine’s very own sourdough starter. Allowed a 24-hour natural fermentation process to further develop its flavour this high quality mixture eradicates that bloated feeling sometimes associated with eating pizza. With added flavor from a charred crust this is friendly for gluten-intolerant diners as the long, natural fermentation works out the discomfort. 

Back to Sicilian Grandma which is a square six inch pizza that is two-inch deep. This pie is laboriously made a bit like croissants where the dough is made then rested, folded, and rested again every two hours over a 24 hour period. And here I was crunching into this amazing pie that was crunchy on the outside with a light and airy texture. 

I was glad that we chose the mortadella and Burrata pie that was baked with a pistachio pesto and powder. Really indulgent with this creamy cheese topped on with no need to add the chilli oil, Italian or Asian seasoning made at Milano Pizza & Wine. I most often prefer to get a taste of ingredients rather than use sauces and seasonings over truly superior fare.   

Very interested in what the buttercrust pan pizza would taste like I remember most of us migrating from deep pan pizza to thin crust and now it looked like Milano Pizza & Wine were taking us back to the days of Milano’s Meat Lovers Buttercrust Pan Pizza. 

Of course not to be compared, this version was certainly crunch on the sides which made it all the more satisfying. Made with cold, warm and room temperature butter you can imagine how tasty this crust was and how much work went into it. We’d have to come again to try different varieties of pizza. 

This Meat Lovers one was filled with calabrese salami, pork sausage, beef ragu with a base of Milano’s own punchy tomato sauce. I sipped on an SRC Italian vino rosso, full bodied with dark cherries and oak tannins. A perfect blend to the meat I was devouring. 

Then Chef Darren came around to do the very Italian ritual of a placing a shot glass of Limoncello in front of us. Down the throat it went in a jiffy and we got a top up. Wow! That certainly cleansed the palette ready for dessert. 

A slice of lemon meringue pie and another of a chocolate hazelnut pie. Delicious but definitely for sharing as portions are large enough for three if you are a small dessert eater such as I am. 

June and I looked at each other. We were entertained with the best service, fantastic food (I was feeling so fine not at all bloated) and wine plus great ambience created by soft lighting, lovely music and décor. We could see how diners were enjoying their evening in low tones of conversation and laughter. 

The warm and welcoming atmosphere is something I will remember. It is the winning formula that will have me going back again for an outstanding pizza coupled with a tipple or two.

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