COVID-19 may have changed the way we travel but not the way we all dream of taking holidays. David Bowden sows the seeds for future vacations with his tales, ‘Wish You Were Here’.
Reliving Montepulciano, a Tuscan Hilltop Town
“Tuscany offers a mesmerising palette of colours that varies markedly with the season. The interplay of light lured artists for centuries and now tourists travel here to enjoy its historic city states, celebrated cuisine and wines like Vino Nobile di Montepulciano.”
I wrote these impressions while in Italy just days before COVID-19 entered the vernacular and wondered how I could relive those memorable days in the Tuscan sunshine.
With one of Italy’s most alluring landscapes of rolling hills where orchards, olive groves and vineyards thrive, I realised that enjoying the fruits of the land back home was the best way to appreciate Tuscany.
Hilltop fortresses towns occupy the highest land in Tuscany with Montelpuciano being one of the most charming, and perfect for discovery on foot. I especially enjoyed just wandering, map in hand but with no real plan.
In the town centre, close to its highest point above the UNESCO recognised Val d’Orcia and the valley below, is the main square or Piazza Grande. Imposing buildings like the Cattedrale di Santa Maria Assunta and elaborate houses once belonging to the district’s noble families line the piazza.
Noble Wines
Sangiovese is the premium grape found in Tuscany’s most famous wines like Chianti, Brunello di Montalcino and Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. White varieties aren't neglected with Vernaccia (from San Gimignano) and Vin Santo (a luscious dessert wine), Tuscany’s best known.
In my wanderings, I located the ancient cellars of Cantine Storiche De Ricci, a short walk beyond the piazza. The main entrance is on Via Ricci but it’s deceptive as I walked down and down a series of steps deep underground. At the bottom, I discovered the Etruscans carved the original cellars into the tuff rock some 2,500 years ago.
After exploring the town, I returned to my car to visit the cellars of Carpineto, Boscarelli and Dei, wineries that had been recommended in the surrounding district. Carpineto is one of Tuscany’s leading wine houses with five estates in impressive locations. Its Vino Nobile di Montepulciano is an excellent aging wine, extraordinarily elegant and smooth on the palate.
The small estate of Boscarelli, on the hill of Cervognano, is one of Montepulciano’s finest producers of Vino Nobile.
The wines of Dei are relatively new with the first Vino Nobile produced from the 1985 vintage. I especially enjoyed inspecting its underground cellars shaped like a shell.
Excellence in Taste
With so much good Italian produce available in Asia, I was able to visit my local supermarket, buy a superb bottle of Carpineto Vino Nobile di Montelpuciano Riserva (recognised by Wine Spectator as one of the world’s most prestigious wineries), Pecorino cheese, Finocchiona sausage, prosciutto, salami, crusty bread and olives to feast and reflect upon a post COVID-19 Tuscan tour.
Montepulciano is near Montalcino and San Gimignano, other hilltop towns enclosed within protective walls and famous for prized wines like Brunello di Montalcino and Vernaccia di San Gimignano.
Florence is the gateway airport and an essential stop for Renaissance inspiration, art appreciation and to architectural admiration.
Travel File
Getting There
KLM (www.klm.my) has daily flights from Singapore to Florence via Amsterdam with an opportunity for a stopover in the Netherlands.
Getting About
Montepulciano is a 90 minute-drive from Florence Airport and a rental car is the best way to explore Tuscany. Alternatively, use the personalised services offered by wine and gourmet tour guide, Filippo Magnani (www.fufluns.com).
Accommodation
Within the walled city, comfortable boutique accommodation is available at the family-run, Meublé Il Ricco (www.www.ilriccio.net) on Via Talosa, near Piazza Grande.
Intimate luxurious properties like Castello Banfi Il Borgo (www.castellobanfiilborgo.com) are located near Montepulciano.
Contacts
Consorzio del vino Nobile di Montepulciano (www.consorziovinonobile.it).
About David Bowden
David Bowden is a freelance journalist based in Malaysia, specializing in travel and the environment. While Australian, he’s been living in Asia longer than he can remember, and returns to his home country as a tourist. When not travelling the world, he enjoys relaxing with his equally adventurous wife Maria and daughter Zoe. He’s the author of Enchanting Borneo, Enchanting Malaysia and Enchanting Singapore. Also in this series you will find Enchanting Vietnam, Enchanting Penang, Enchanting Indonesia, and Enchanting Langkawi
