David Bowden is a freelance journalist based in Malaysia, specializing in travel and the environment. While Australian, he’s been living in Asia longer than he can remember, and returns to his home country as a tourist. He’s the author of Enchanting Borneo, Enchanting Malaysia, Enchanting Singapore and Enchanting Langkawi published by John Beaufoy of the UK.
I was told that I shouldn’t go back, but I did. One of the great truths of travel is that nothing stays the same and that change is rarely for the better. More planes, hotels and travellers mean that fond travel memories can’t be rekindled when you return. Luang Prabang bucks the trend.
Remoteness has a lot to do with the former royal Lao capital being a destination that requires a determined effort to visit. My flight on Bangkok Airways from Singapore via Koh Samui and Bangkok was long but there’s really no quicker option. While Luang Prabang Airport can accommodate large aircrafts our ATR-72 propeller aircraft seemed appropriate for a town that appears to be from another era.
Heritage Town
I have a lot of respect for UNESCO as their heritage list is the litmus test of travel. When Luang Prabang was accepted into the UNESCO fold there was hope that the town at the confluence of the Mekong and Kong Rivers would remain in a steady state of slumber. This was how I viewed the town when I first visited years ago but even then it was hard to imagine that tourism wouldn’t soon overrun the town.
Tourism is definitely important here but this is one shining example of responsible tourism where heritage is protected but elements of contemporary life have been sensitively incorporated.
The town’s quirky cafés and bars serve Lao coffee, cool cocktails, spicy cuisine and imported wines alongside Lao Beer.
Temple Town
With some 30 temples and thousands of monks, Luang Prabang is the spiritual home for Lao people. The main attractions, in a town without traffic lights, are the temples and it’s possible to walk to most.
Once a royal residence, the former Royal Palace is now a museum where the interior has been retained to offer an insight into the privileged but modest life of the former royal family.
Just down the main street called Sakkaline Road is the beautiful Wat Xieng Thong temple with its ornate mosaics adorning its walls.
While not unique to Luang Prabang, the morning procession of monks seeking alms is something that appeals to many. While it requires an early morning rise, witnessing the monks in their saffron-coloured robes is an essential activity.
Historic Residences
Alongside the cafés and bars are boutique hotels and guesthouses that have found a home within the protected façades of the old buildings in what is considered South East Asia’s best preserved town.
My hotel of choice was the Sofitel Luang Prabang of just 25 suites, all of which line an expansive garden in what was once the French Governor’s Luang Prabang residence.
The Mekong Sparkles
Luang Prabang is linked to the Mekong River and so much of the town life is attributed to the river. It’s a source of water, transportation and communications and adventurous travellers still arrive into Luang Prabang by boat.
Various cruises on the Mekong are possible from overnight stays to shorter trips to places such as Pak Ou Caves. With limited time, I chose a sunset cruise with Luxury on the Mekong which operates a boat with two luxurious cabins for exclusive overnight accommodation.
With a vivid orange sunset as a backdrop our boat pulled up at an island where sparkling wine and canapés provided a fitting end to a laid back and leisurely time in Luang Prabang.
TRAVEL FILE
Getting There
Luang Prabang in northern Lao PDR is isolated and, of course, this is what adds to its immense charm. There are no direct flights from Singapore to Luang Prabang with the best gateway being via Bangkok on Asia’s boutique Bangkok Airlines and then on their direct two-hour flight to Luang Prabang. All passengers on Bangkok Airways enjoy lounge access where passengers can treat themselves to a multitude of free snacks and various choices of hot or cold drinks and wi-fi.
Where to Stay
There has been an explosion in boutique designer accommodation over recent years with two properties setting the benchmark. Stay in style at the Sofitel Luang Prabang or the MGallery 3 Nagas, or, if you can; in both. The designer, all-suites accommodation of the former skirts spacious gardens while the latter is located on the main street within the city’s heritage zone.
Where to Eat
There are affordable dining options from tasty Lao cuisine to a global selection of other cuisines. One of the best Lao options is the 3 Nagas Restaurant where dishes like spring rolls and steamed mushroom in banana leaf are served beneath frangipani trees. Governor’s Grill in the Sofitel is special for its setting and locally-sourced dishes.
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