As the escalator descended to the basement of Palais Renaissance I noticed the stylish gold design of sturgeon splashed on the exterior walls of Caviar. I was invited to this premier restaurant that specialized in caviar, used in so many ways I had never expected.
Very excited at the thought of experiencing an evening so unique, the sliding door opened to admit me. A welcoming corner greeted me to the well-trained voices of service staff who were beaming with pride at this new establishment they represented.
A wonderful start to the night as I was shown to this cosy corner where an introduction to the many varieties of champagne, whisky and quality alcohol one might pair with a fine-dining caviar night, began.
The Legras & Haas champagne kicked off my culinary journey. This small production house in Chouilly, France had just what I needed – champagne containing lower sugar levels than usual which of course, were a good pair to caviar.
My first sip of this chilled bubbly was inviting to the palette. At least I could sit back and relax somewhat, knowing I was not at the effect of too many calories. Hors d’oeuvres were served. A deep fried caviar ball, a delightful piece of caviar toast with egg yolk and avocado and lastly, a tomato macaron with Uni cream.
I felt initiated into this wonderful restaurant. A little conversation over a glass of bubbly, gave way to taking in the rich surroundings I was in. I noticed a little alcove on one side, a few tables that were simply and stylishly designed and most of all the alluring chef’s table that I hoped we would sit at.
I love bars. Far more sociable than being seated at a formal table plus I got to see what chefs were up to behind the scene. We were being beckoned to dinner. Oh! We were shown to seats at the chef’s table. Nice!
A bread plate was served with olive semolina bread and a beef fat herb brioche. Yes you heard me right. Beef fat. Glazed with fermented garlic honey that gave way to a crisp exterior, it was so good I made the usual mistake of eating almost all of it.
The semolina roll, not to be taken lightly, was crunchy on the outside, perfect texture for a pull apart. With a chunk of roasted yeast butter it was simply delicious. This was the difference of a fine restaurant where artistry at work created amazing treats. I hadn’t even started the main part of my meal!
Served in portions larger than I expected my first dish arrived – Botan Ebi. Fried prawn head so crunchy, I could eat every part of it. No waste on this one! A tartare mix with pomelo, chives, shallot, lime zest, with dashi vinegar dressing topped with sliced water chestnut and Polenco Oscietra Caviar. This was a five star dish for me.
I knew the following dishes would be as fine and stunning as this. Exquisite refined flavours I had never tasted before. Braised potato with lardo, egg yolk confit and Polenco Siberian Caviar. I loved the crunch of buckwheat and the umami taste from homemade chicken broth.
Wow the creativity really hit me like a thunderbolt. These artist chefs working right in front of me were superstars in their terrain. Working seamlessly, each knew what they had to do. A little flower to complete the dish. A little sauce to lift and pull together tastes.
While it seemed all so easy this was an indication of the hard work put in before the actual show. The quiet ambience with light tones and laughter, indicative of a fine dining restaurant was also something I liked. It made me feel like eating and savouring every morsel of food I tasted.
Back to the Chef’s table at Caviar and a halibut with fermented leek, ikura and Pil Pil sauce arrived. Not just any halibut but wild caught from the North Atlantic and Artic Ocean. Didn’t I know the difference! Texture so firm and taste so full. Smoky with a light buttery sauce with hints of lemon and fresh Ikura popping for texture.
With every dish, a different caviar that complemented perfectly. What an art. Caviar a delicacy usually eaten as a garnish or spread was used in so many ways here. I loved it. The extent to which chefs at Caviar knew their trade was evident.
Traditionally referring to roe from wild sturgeon, today it may also be used to describe the roe of other species of sturgeon or fish such as salmon, steelhead, trout, lumpfish, whitefish or carp.
Serious overexploitation combined with other conservation threats brought most species to critically endangered status, at the edge of extinction. Today roe is obtained from farmed fish which is a great migration from natural sources. Relief!
Pigeon was next on this amazingly curated 5-course set meal, priced at $98++ for lunch and $248++ for dinner. Dry aged pigeon breast from France, grilled over a Binchotan grill - type of charcoal traditionally used in Japanese cooking, like yakitori. It's made by firing wood in a kiln until it is carbonized, and once done, a blend of ash and sand is thrown over the charcoal to extinguish the flames.
That smoky flavor blended well with the creamy, nutty celeriac puree cooked with brown butter. Jus was made from kombu, chicken and pigeon stock, with a hint of red wine served with pickled blackberry in white balsamic vinegar and grilled plum. The latter was what made the difference. It lightened the entire dish which was also topped with Superior Oscietra caviar.
While it might sound like an overwhelmingly heavy meal, one that would be hard to digest, we went through all courses very well. This was really thumbs up to the chefs hard at work behind the scenes. They truly were masters at combining foods that would make for a wonderful dining experience.
The main part of our meal was complete and now time to change gears to dessert. A Sake Lees (a by-product of sake making which still holds 8 percent of alcohol) ice-cream which was the best thing ever. Served with a Polenco Siberian Caviar!
Who would have thought? Caviar and ice-cream. Pushing the boundaries of my mind this one although caviar lovers have probably been indulging for some time now. So refreshing because of its slightly acidic taste from alcohol and salty finish from caviar. Wow is all I could say.
The Petit Four arrived with my favourite being the financier. When I lived in Sydney this was my weakness. I knew where to find the best financiers so imagine my delight when I saw it here at Caviar. I knew it would be a cut above everything else I had had before and I was spot on.
Chewy like it should be that tiny morsel in one mouthful, gave me so much satisfaction. A financier is a French almond cake and this one was flavoured with brown butter and Superior Oscietra caviar. Indulgent yes!
A single origin chocolate truffle made from 72 percent full-bodied Venezuelan dark chocolate and sea salt flakes. Another combo that hit the spot. I love bitter as it cuts the richness and heaviness of food. In fact it is typically what I end with after a meal at home.
A passion fruit tarragon pate de fruit, chewy and candy-like in texture was coated in tarragon sugar. The artillery of specialized machines in the kitchen highlighted expertise behind the scenes. Fresh tarragon dehydrated lent a freshness to this dessert which took centre stage in closing the meal for the night.
What an exhilarating experience! Caviar is fast gaining recognition by diners who have already frequented. Starting with only dinners, they have now extended their repertoire of culinary delights to offer lunch and brunch too.
A 7-course Sunday brunch at $198++ where a wine and champagne promotion can be topped up from $98++ would be a truly fabulous way to enjoy a languorous afternoon with a few treasured friends. Starting at 11.30am it’s a great way to kickstart a Sunday.
If you are more of a dinner person then a 9-course menu for $328++ is also available. Whatever you choose the experience will be one to remember for the food quality, service and consistency of meals presented is one of a kind. Dinner is available from 6pm onwards from Tuesday to Saturday.
Calling all caviar lovers and those who wish to be introduced to this specialty food. We are fortunate to have a restaurant like Caviar right on our doorstep. See you soon!
*Every effort has been made to ensure that the information here is accurate at the time of publication. However, changes to the information may have occurred since going to press. Please check www.cvr.sg or www.facebook.com/SG.CVR for the latest information.
a. 390 Orchard Road, Palais Renaissance (#B1-07) Singapore, Singapore 238871
w. www.cvr.sg/
