Expat Choice | Alpana Singh Visits Permata Singapore To Discover Progressive Nusantara Cuisine at Gedung Kuning

Alpana Singh Visits Permata Singapore To Discover Progressive Nusantara Cuisine at Gedung Kuning

Published - 30 April 2022, Saturday

The current menu at Permata, is a must-try if you are looking for authentic regional flavours, served with a contemporary twist, says Alpana Singh

If you are a history enthusiast, and a self-declared food connoisseur like me, then you will love eating at Permata, a restaurant located at the historical Gedung Kuning, or Yellow Mansion, which serves delicious Nusantara food. Nusantara, in simplified terms, is used to describe the Southeast Asian archipelago, and the diverse cuisine is a result of thousands of years of exchanges of culture, and food between early settlers in Singapore, from Indonesia, and its surrounding islands, and Malaysia. It even has some Thai, and Myanmarese influences. Gedung Kuning, built in the 1850s, is located next to the Malay Heritage Centre, at Kampong Glam, and boasts of a beautiful European-style exterior, while the inside of the restaurant is similar to a single-storied, Malay house.

Permata used to be a buffet-style restaurant, but has recently relaunched with an à la carte menu, with 40 exclusive dishes. There is also a new face at the helm, and that is celebrity chef Mel Dean, who is a recent addition to the team at Permata, but has been a part of Singapore’s culinary map for 29 years. With his wide experience, and innovative cooking skills, Dean has given new life to the menu, and now presents Nusantara cuisine with a modern touch.

The starters are plated in a contemporary style, but the flavours remain true to the original tastes. The nasi ulam cakerwala, are fried, crispy rice balls, mixed with a slightly hot sambal, a hint of salted fish, and then dipped in a spicy turmeric sauce. My favourite, though, was the refreshing Nusantara ceviche, a wonderful start to any meal, to prepare your palate. Seafood, such as scallops, black mussels, prawn, and salmon, have been dressed with a tangy ginger flower lime dressing, and served in a fancy glass. The ceviche comes on a bed of blue pea gel cubes, giving it a fresh flavour.

Now who doesn’t like a good risotto, but if you haven’t tried the one at Permata, then you are missing out on a unique experience. The risotto here has been coupled with a popular Indonesian beef soup: Rawon. The beef is slow-cooked, and sits on top of the creamy risotto, along with a silky ramen egg, some tempeh chips, and rice crackers. And to give it that extra oomph, it comes with a hot sambal belacan that adds a kick to the entire meal.

Dean takes a lot of inspiration from Kelantan, a state in Malaysia, where he grew up. He remembers the Ayam Percik, a Malaysian roast or grilled chicken which is a favourite at the Ramadan food markets. At Permata, this has been taken to another level, and Dean has used lamb ribs instead, which are braised in a paste of chili, shallots, galangal, and lemongrass for 4 hours. The ribs are chargrilled, just before serving, and the meat is a burst of melt-in-your-mouth flavours: savoury, citrusy, and a hint of spiciness.

To wrap up the meal, I had a dessert which is another inspiration from Kelantan.Cek Mek Molek, which literally means beautiful lady, are deep fried sweet potato rolls. Permata serves this dish with vanilla ice-cream, and a gorgeous espresso-caramel sauce. The light sweetness coupled with the warm sweet potatoes, and the cold ice-cream, gives a unique and special ending to the meal.

The word Permata, in Malay, means jewel, and the restaurant stays true to this name, with its delectable food, and great service.